Coral bells & stratification of seeds

So, half of our property is in pretty deep shade, so coral bells are starting to look appealing (they handle shade just fine).

I harvested some seeds last year and will try my hand at propagating them this year, based on the following instructions:

1. Collect coral bells seeds after blooming is completed. Allow the seed pods--located at the base of the blossoms--to dry on the plant, and then remove them and collect the seeds.
2. Cold-stratify the seeds by placing them in a brown paper bag with moist vermiculite and storing them in the refrigerator for 6 weeks, a process that ensures more effective germination.
3. Start the seeds indoor two months ahead of when you want to plant them outside--normally, after danger of last frost has passed. Sow the coral bells seeds over potting mix in a seed tray. Do not cover the seeds with mix; simply scatter them on top of the soil. Spray well with a mister to moisten the soil without disturbing the seeds.
4. Place the seed tray in a clear plastic bag, and put it in bright, indirect light. You may want to use an undertray heating pad to keep soil temperature at 65 to 75 degrees; a draft-free corner of your house can work just as well.
5. Remove the plastic when the seeds germinate, usually within 3 weeks. Place the tray in a sunny windowsill or under a grow light. Keep the soil evenly moist, but don't allow it to become water-logged or soggy.
6. Transplant the coral bells seedlings into small clay flowerpots filled with potting soil when each seedling has two sets of true leaves. Water thoroughly, and return to the windowsill. Keep the soil moist.
7. Plant the seedlings outdoors, after the last frost date, in a location with sun to partial shade and with well-drained, moist soil with a pH 6.1 to 7.8. Space the seedlings 9 to 12 inches apart. Water well, and water thereafter to keep soil moist as the seedlings are establishing themselves.
8. Add a 1-inch layer of organic mulch after transplanting to conserve moisture, protect the roots and provide a barrier against fungal diseases.
9. Fertilize the seedlings a week after transplanting with a water-soluble, all-purpose fertilizer, and repeat every four months in the growing season. Keep watered and weeded for the rest of the summer. If your coral bells don't bloom the first year, they probably will by the second.

You can also propagate them from cuttings:

Cut off a healthy leaf and a couple inches of the petiole, the stalk that is between the leaf and the stem. Do this in the fall, according Michigan State University Extension. Then, dip the end of the petiole in rooting hormone which may help it root better. Place the petiole in moist vermiculite or sand. In a couple weeks, roots should start to form. Tug on the leaf cutting and if you feel some resistance, it's working. Replant outdoors in the spring after the last frost.

... and from division:

Coral bells are easily propagated through division in the spring. You should divide your coral bells once every three to four years. Dig around clumps of coral bells about 6 to 8 inches deep and gently lift the clump out of the ground. Brush off the soil and examine their roots. Separate the plants by tugging on the roots to divide them. You can also use a sharp knife to divide the roots. Each section should have healthy roots and a healthy section of the plant. The center, woody part of the clump should be discarded. Replant immediately.

This "stratification" business needs a little clarification:

place the seeds in a sealed plastic bag with moistened vermiculite (or sand or even a moistened paper towel) and refrigerate it. Use three times the amount of vermiculite as seeds. It is important to only slightly dampen the vermiculite, as excessive moisture can cause the seeds to grow mouldy in the bag.